Life adapts instantly. The first snowfall is met with a collective gasp of joy from the few tourists lucky enough to be there, and a knowing smile from the locals. Children pour out of Tibetan Refugee Self-Help Center homes to build lumpy, happy snowmen. Tea stalls become sanctuaries. You will see porters and monks and photographers huddled together on wooden benches, clutching glasses of chhaang (Tibetan millet beer) or sweet, milky Masala Chai .